Dying of Skin Color

On one of the paths we take to Bugando Hospital from home, we frequently pass by an albino gentleman. He usually sits in same leafy spot, by a shabby snack stand where some men sell peanuts and biscuits for a few hundred shilings.

In the four months that we’ve lived in Tanzania, we’ve actually encountered quite a few albinos. And every time we do, we’re somewhat afraid for their lives.  You may have read about the ongoing albino killings in this country. In the Mwanza Region where we live, the death toll has actually been one of the highest.

Foul beliefs about albinos vary. Many people believe that the lightness of albino skin is a sign that they possess extraordinary powers. Others believe that their very oddity creates a supernatural threat to those living around them. 

In either case, the upshot is that in the year 2009, in the area of Tanzania containing it’s second largest city, people are hunted down and brutally murdered regularly because of their skin color.  Or because their body parts can be sold at high prices to people wanting to get rich or richer, to gain advantage over enemies or to advance whatever cause they believe magical albino body parts will help along.  

Recently, we’ve been learning that albino killings are just one of the many ways in which powerful and deep-rooted beliefs about magic and witches and witchcraft guide attitudes and behavior in myriad aspects of life.  For example, Duncan may carefully explain what medications a child with TB or chronic diarrhea should take, while said child’s parents consult witch doctors on the side, who dole out strongly conflicting advice.  What will the parents do? 

Recently, I’ve read a few local newspaper articles that condemn albino killings, but maintain a conciliatory if not positive position on witchcraft itself. After all, goes the thinking, life for people in the Mwanza Region is hard. Can you blame them for trying to do something to better their lives--like paying a witch doctor to slaughter a few chickens, and chant a few spells to ensure their son excels on his final exams?

As foreigners and guests, we always have to consider quite carefully, how, when and if to critique an aspect about our host culture.  It's easy to speak out against albino killing, but trickier to broach the subject of witchcraft. Wisdom and courage for all those trying to fight beliefs and actions that are truly rotten, without arrogantly dismissing what is to be treasured and celebrated about the Tanzanian way of life.